Le Lavandou: Twelve Beaches and a Ferry to the Islands

Twelve named beaches run along this stretch at the foot of the Massif des Maures, the low, dark-forested range of cork oak and chestnut that gives this part of the coast its particular green backdrop, so different from the paler, scrubbier hills further east toward Saint-Tropez. Grande Plage sits right in the center of town, wide and lively, with rentals and a beach bar for anyone who wants the full setup. Saint-Clair, just east, is quieter and backed by pines close enough to sit under. Aiguebelle is smaller still, a proper cove worth the short walk down for anyone who wants to snorkel over rocks rather than sand. Keep going west along the Corniche des Maures and the beaches get progressively quieter, Cavalière and Pramousquier among the last before the road climbs away from the water entirely. A coastal path, the Sentier du Littoral, links several of these beaches for anyone who'd rather walk the shoreline than drive it, and the walk itself, in and out of pine shade with the sea never far from view, is arguably as good as any single beach along it.

Come for the beach you saw in a photo. Stay for the one nobody posted.

The town grew up as a fishing and trading port long before it became a resort, and it's worth remembering that history when the place feels, at first glance, like a straightforward beach town. The old port still does double duty today: working boats tied up next to weekend sailboats, and passenger ferries leaving daily for the Îles d'Or, Port-Cros, Le Levant, and Porquerolles in season. Down by the water, the pétanque courts turn into their own kind of theater most evenings, older men arguing good-naturedly over a throw while the sun goes down behind them. Stephanie says the real show some nights is courtside, and not on the sand.

Ferries run less often outside summer, so check the schedule before planning an island day-trip, and expect the crossing itself to take under half an hour depending on which island. Port-Cros, a national park with no cars allowed, makes for the most peaceful of the three if you only have time for one. Around Le Lavandou's own port, look for the simple grilled-fish places aimed at fishermen eating lunch rather than at tourists working through a menu translated three ways. They're usually the better meal, and cheaper too.

The drive in along the Corniche des Maures, whichever direction you come from, is part of the experience rather than just a way to get here, the road hugging the coastline with the sea dropping away below and the Maures rising green on the other side. It's slow going in August traffic, so build in extra time, or better, arrive by train to Toulon or Hyères and bus or taxi the rest of the way if you'd rather skip the driving altogether.

If you only have an afternoon, Grande Plage to the port and back is an easy walk with plenty of reasons to stop along the way. Parking near the center fills up fast in July and August, so arrive early or plan to walk in from one of the quieter beaches instead. Late June and September give nearly the same weather with a fraction of the crowd, worth considering if your dates are flexible.